this is my iBook that i bought with photo incentives when i was like 16. i gave it to mini (currently principle filmer for marine layer, but was at the time probably working for josh williams) in probably 2004. well, he just gave it back, and i skimmed though the hard drive via the firewire connecto trick and wanted to share some stuff that was on there.
this video is from mini’s early explorations into iMovie. i get asked a lot about the progression of surfing and always think it’s a silly question. i mean, it just seems obvious to me, people aren’t going to get worse. kids aren’t going to start surfing slower and doing smaller airs. of course they’re going to take what older guys were doing and take it further. and in my eyes there’s rarely anything groundbreaking, it happens incrementally. but then in 8 or 9 years you really see a difference.
i watched matt banting’s ‘living california’ edit on stab the other day. and it was really cool to compare it to this video. i think we’re pretty much the same age, surfing the same shitty waves, and he’s doing the same shit, just more refined, bigger, faster, more rotation.
you know what’s really progressed a lot? video quality.this is unbelievable. first chapter, in it’s infancy, yet to be named, was funded and controlled by quiksilver australia. they hired jason muir and george opachy from a company called ‘the construction site,’ which had made young guns 1 and 2, to produce it. this was the first imagery that i received from them. i really have to thank natas kaupas, who worked at quiksilver in america at the time, cause he saw this and was like ‘oh hell noooo’ and took over the art direction. he gave it the title ‘first chapter’ and gave it a serious nudge in the right direction. it was still produced out of australia and i stayed in north sydney for 6 weeks editing it at the construction site. but the ‘oh hell nooo’ attitude stuck with me through the editing process which gave it it’s bratty attitude, and natas’s art direction really saved it from being just a giveaway/throwaway type of movie.andy. nias, maybe 2004.same trip. this is what happens when you’re a grom on a boat trip. i was really lucky to get to do trips with andy, bruce, mick fanning, cj, taylor knox, shane dorian, and kelly in my late teenager years. especially surfing wise, but also culturally (for lack of a better word). the taylor steele trip era is done, and now its the energy drink trip era, and i feel lucky to at least been apart of the end of the taylor steele trip era.danny fuller, travis logie, jake patterson, kelly slater, fred pattachia, me, and… giselle. i think kelly may have been dating her at the time. she came down to the trestles contest and somebody wanted to take this photo and i remember thinking it was kinda funny that he had his arm around her.this was in japan the last year that quiksilver had a wct there. i got the wildcard and lost to andy in the 3rd round. the waves were incredible. this was the year that andy and kelly had the epic final and shit, who ended up winning? i think andy, but they were both killing it. the waves were huge and kelly took me to surf this outer reef that he had seen from his hotel room window. he called it mathra which i think is a godzilla reference. it was terrifying. it was like a 10 ft crazy ledgy takeoff into a closeout.
this was a flat day before the contest started. golf aint my thing. i ended up carrying my ball the last few holes cause it was maddening trying to hit that dumb little ball straight. i was hyped on the clothes quiksilver japan had given me though.curt harper. if you live in california i’m sure you’ve seen him driving kids around to go surf. he used to pick me and geoff brack up to go surf. now he picks up other 13 yr old kids to go surf. forever young.ry craike/clay marzo. young guns 2 trip. i miss travelling with these guys. the photo of ry is incredible.santa clara 2004. i swear the waves used to be better in california.and finally, young mini. in costume on the left and boogieboarding on the right.
frog hunt.yoge yoshida of colors magazine taking a photo of grady taking a photo of craig.yoge’s road soda’s.heading to the airport to go to europe.stopping to take photos of an abandoned pet clinic.zarautz!kids psyching. pukas surf shop before the premiere.some kids came in to see what the commotion was about but didn’t know anything about surfing. they wanted to know who the famous person was. someone pointed to cortney. so she signed a bunch of posters for kids with the message ‘how’d you get so special?’ or ‘stay tiny’ to the smaller ones.waiting for the doors to open…same theatre we premiered first chapter in about 8 yrs ago i think.craig on a 6’5 single fin at pipe. while he didn’t get the wave of the winter or anything, it’s still pretty fucken gnarly to have nearly zero experience out there and catch a few waves off second reef on a 6’5 single fin. in my opinion at least…more interviews.the next night we showed it at the quiksilver boardriders house in hossegor, france. this is in the living room.we look tired because we are. i barely made it past the movie on the last night. craig went on to italy and said it was insane. lots of psyching kids. wow i look horrible i just looked again. i went home where i’m currently recuperating. that’s pretty much all from slow dance. hope everyone enjoyed the movie.
go to quiksilver.com/slowdance tomorrow, august 8th to stream slow dance live for 24 hrs starting 6 am pacific standard time. or go to itunes to buy it. as for us, we are halfway through the premiere tour. today we leave japan for europe where we’ll screen the movie in zarautz on august 9th and hossegor on august 10th. then i go home and craig goes to italy for one more screening. if you’re in the area and dig surfing you gotta come watch. japans been extremely rad – big thanks shin, yuji, haruka, mami, and everyone else at quiksilver japan and various publications like colors-magazine.com and F + magazine (sorry yuki i couldn’t find it online) and, shit, i know i’m leaving some people out, but thanks everyone —>
stab sent grady archibald to cover it. he absolutely hates having his picture taken. he makes cool shit at welcomerivers.com
tomorrow – 7/29/2013, is the first day of the hurley pro online trials. go to http://www.thehurleypro.com and vote. i’m up against austin smith ford in the first round. the contest goes all week with a new round every other day. it’s a pretty cool concept. very democratic. you guys choose who you wanna see surf in the lowers pro against the top 34. i’d be honored to get the spot but you guys decide. i’m sure there’s going to be some stiff competition.
i’m headed to japan tomorrow. stoked.
everyones probably tired of hearing about this but if you’re in orange county come check it out. unfortunately capacity is limited because of zoning or some code regulations at quiksilver headquarters so rsvp here www.quik.to/slowdancehb
in other news i’ve entered into the hurley pro online contest where you get to vote who is the wildcard at trestles. starting july 29th at TheHurleyPro.com vote for who you wanna see surf trestles.
so craig flew into california on may 7th to edit slow dance and we had a potential may 27th deadline. that deadline turned into june 17th which is today. judgement day. man, making movies aint easy. two tracks were in limbo till this morning, but they cleared! and we still have a few minor tweaks to make but we’re turning it tomorrow. one day late. i think it turned out dope. i feel fat and stiff from sitting at the computer pretty much all day every day since may 7th but it’s been sweet. psycked to be a surfer again. tomorrow i will board a flight and go somewhere where i can surf all day and melt away. but for now, tomorrow is judgement day, and this is a webclip.
track by tickley feather.
i watched this video today hoping to catch a glimpse of the outline of my favorite first fred rubble (i swear it had hips!) which i stupidly broke and left in mexico on the lost interest trip, never to be analyzed for reproduction. unfortunately i didn’t find that (there’s shots where i can see the outline of my rookie that was made for andy, and my og neck beard but not the fred rubble) but the video sparked some nostalgia and since it didn’t make the move to new marine layer a few months ago i’ll repost it now.
i usually hate using songs with direct lyrics, such as the kleenex song that repeats ‘tears came to his eyes’ while i’m surfing on the soft top, because that makes no sense you know, but i’ll never forget that day, because that was the day that andy died, and when we were editing it eerily clicked.