this was one of the best days of surfing in my life ~
a few notable memories ~
1. kolohe screaming: we’d been driving for like 3 hrs and didn’t think it really was going to be that good cause where surfed in the morning was shit but then we pulled up and it was pumping and we paddled out and kolohe screamed the whole 2 hours we surfed except when he was on waves.
2. yakuniku yakuniku yakuniku: when we finished surfing it was dark and we had a 3 hr drive ahead of us and we weren’t looking forward to eating 7-11 for dinner again (happened a lot on this trip) and yadin couldn’t stop talking about yakuniku yakuniku yakuniku! its korean bbq where they bring out weird meats like tongue and stuff and you cook it on your table… i had never had it. anyways we found one, and everyone was super buzzed up off of stoke and i just remember laughing a lot and drinking beer and eating salty meat. that’s a good memory.
3. claiming it: it’s not my usual reaction to throw my hands up in the air when i’m stoked, and actually, this is the only time i can remember it happening (except maybe when i was really young) but before i knew it my hands were above my head. everyone had a good laugh about it when we watched the footage, cause kai missed the first part of the wave and it looked like i was claiming a little head dip. but then after some calls kai found a local guy that had filmed it so stoked it got documented cause it was one of the best waves of my life and the claim was pretty chris brown which, if i’m gonna claim it, i’m stoked it was like that.
_____________________ (<$$$$$$>#####<::::::>) _/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\ /~ ~\ .~ ~ ()\/_____ _____\/() .-'' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ``-. .-~ __________________ ~-. `~~/~~~~~~~~~~~~TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT~~~~~~~~~~~~\~~' | | | #### #### || | | |  | | | || #### #### | | | ;__\|___________|++++++++++++++++++|___________|/__; (~~====___________________________________====~~~) \------_____________[CHIP 911]__________-------/ | || ~~~~~~~~ || | \_____/ \_____/
the stage of the final scene. me vs mick at snapper rocks. but first, we’ll take it back to the beginningwarming up during one of the better days of my brief and un-triumphant return to the QS. at the end of last year i was watching john john and julian killing it in the CT’s and was struggling with broken hand/broken ego after two shocker entries into trestles and france and thought it might be cool to do a few qualifying events and see where it takes me. so i showed up in australia but i wasn’t ready for the grind. competing in 1 ft waves is a joke. so after 2 early losses on the QS i retired. then it turns out surfing 1 ft waves in general sucks, so we took off for greener pastures ~and met up with dylan reider and austin gillette on the way making it a partial reunion from our ‘team average’ trip a few years ago.ever wonder where the term ‘team average’ came from? well monster children put this trip together with me, craig, warren smith, dylan reider, austin gillette, sammy winter and kevin terpening and the idea was to drive from sydney to the gold coast surfing surf spots and skating skate spots along the way. one day we were in some town where there was a skate park or something and it was raining so we weren’t doing shit and went in a bookstore and dylan bought everyone pins that said ‘team average.’ shit story but thats where it came from. wish i still had my pin.you know this kid right?and then it was the gold coastbut not before we saw eminem in sydney. the cab driver that night said the stadium has 90,000 seats, and it was packed, plus probably 10,000 people standing on the field, and they didn’t even check courtney’s bag when we came in! guess that’s the difference between america and australia but sorta scary (i’m thinking sniper). wish i woulda known, i would have brought a 6 pack of beer in cause the line for the bar was outta control with shit head thug brats cutting in line then you get to the front and they only sell mid strength (3 % alc) beer that tastes like pee and makes you have to pee and doesn’t even get you buzzed. oh well.
then it was the gold coastwhere animals rulei’ve talked a lot about riding jordy’s board in my heat against mick, if you wanna know why, here’s the backstory ~ i showed up in australia the first week of february with 8 boards. after the first 2 QS’s we went to the south coast where i broke all of them. i never break boards so it was either weird glass jobs or the waves are unusual down there or something but i was breaking 1-2 boards a session. so i showed up on the gold coast with nothing (i had a 5’4 plug and an mtf left) but luckily travis lee from channel islands had brought me 4 boards. a 5’11 epoxy, and 3 handshapes that were inspired by the board i’m riding in ‘pleasure point’ which wasn’t scanned so replicating is difficult. the week leading up to the event i stuck with these 4 boards. the 5’11 epoxy was sick for waist high waves, and the first round was waist high so i rode it. then i stuck with the other 3 trying to get used to them cause no way they were gonna run in waist high waves again. well, the day before the third round i freaked out cause the 3 handshapes just weren’t working so i tried jordy’s old boards in a sort of desperation and they were way thicker than what i’m used to but i could tell they were better boards than i had so i stuck with it.
i saw in a post heat interview fred pattachia saying he thought his boards only made a 2% difference in his surfing. for me it’s like 60% because i have to be able to visualize how the board is going to react to my movements prior to actually riding a wave. and i have to be able to see what the board looked like under my feet (in footage) to validate whether it works or not. so i rode these boards prior to my heat enough to visualize internally, but had never seen footage so i had no validation. when i watch my heat back it doesn’t pass validation, but regardless, in hindsight, it was my best option due to unusual circumstances.
ROUND 1 5’11 epoxy
ROUND 3 6’1 jordy board
“If I didn’t care for fun and such,
I’d probably amount to much.
But I shall stay the way I am,
Because I do not give a damn.”- Dorothy Parker
thanx for watching.
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Summer means many different things to different people. To some it might mean the thrill of a high speed catamaran. Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. Still others like some kind of inland activity. But for us, it’s the sport of surfing. – Endless Summer
That’s me in the corner
I am alone.
That’s me in the spotlight
I feel like everyone is watching.
Losing my religion. – REM
i seriously hate this more than anything.‘Gambling is a disease of barbarians superficially civilized.’ – william ralph inge (anglican priest)
“He was not bone and feather but a perfect idea of freedom and flight, limited by nothing at all” – Jonathon Livingston Seagullan introduction to turbo, the resident bulldog where we stayed during the manly contest. here he is watching us leave under the reflection of our rental car.on the boardwalk now, an oldie but a goodie.husky puppy soaking up the japanese tourist love.curren caples backside smith. it was cool to see him skate cause i always see him surfing and never seen him skate. i’m jealous of skateboarders in the way that there’s no such thing as a flat spell. waiting for waves when your amped sucks.bird hit – 1. urban silkie chickens with rod stewart feathered hair we would walk by every day on the way to the beach. 2. kookaburra’s are RAD 3. boardwalk pidg.beagle touch.d pill rips. see below.noa deane rips. see belowozzie wright, longtime idol, at home. we longboarded in front of his house and miley grace, his wife, got cortny to surf, which is weird, cause cortny hates surfing, but maybe she’s been enlightened. miley likes riding whitewashes rather than clean face, and this resonated with cortny, who doesn’t like the pressure keeping the nose up while dropping down a breaking wave. then a circular rainbow grew around the sun and we took a picture in front of it.turbo for PAMWEAR.com“The summer sun was not meant for boys like me. Boys like me belonged to the rain.”
craig made an epic pre reel for me to loop while while people were arrivingthe brainmerch table.backstage with wolf eyesaaron coyes of peaking lightsthe line outside. super amped on the turnout.me and cortny. she kept everything from falling apart at the seams. and i’m thankful for that.nate young of wolf eyes psyched to meet natasthis photo is perfect.the ventura uniform: flannel and dickies.#gimmedatcardane 4th place winner casey conterasclover higgins. all smiles.wolf eyes carnagebrendan gibbens, noa deane, and me. noa’s got a super solid showing in loaded. stoked they made it out to the premier.peaking lights.#gimmedatcardane awards… and introducing the film.sara tay. winning.handing over the pink slip.sara tay checking the loot.
paper mache boogie and truffle from sara tay’s winning video.peeling out.wolf eyes killed it. every surf premier i’ve ever been to people peel out after the movie despite the bands that follow. i thought this one would be different cause it was such a sick line up. when else would you see peaking lights and wolf eyes play in ventura!?! but no, it went from a packed house to barren wasteland, but wolf eyes crushed the few skulls that were left with cosmic sonic sledgehammers.grady archibald hates having his photo takenwolf eyes post apocalypseand i’m out.compile of #ireallywantdatcardane entries i made for the premier…
here’s a small selection of the #ireallywantdatcardane entries. i haven’t picked the winners yet. 5 winners will be announced saturday night at ventura theatre. with the grand prize being the volvo loaded with surf gear. thanks everyone for your entries!
another unreleased one, from a local contest last year. i like local comps cause when there’s no money or points on the line everyone relaxes a little and it’s fun to hang out with your friends and surf like 4 heats in one day and then go get beers after.and here’s mini winning the boogieboard division of the same contest a few years ago.