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2 AM. 5 disk 80's box set i bought on the drive home from amsterdam a month ago. disk 5 slamming on the car stereo. Fine Young Cannibals. wine bought at the gas station. new shoes. been here too long.

young tuck nervous about a certain movie. lotta pressure at this point. riding huge boards for some reason. this was 2004. or 2005? 2004. working on first chapter. in europe crazy long time. terrible waves for the most part but i've since realized that most trips are like that. watching this makes me happy that i discovered the fish. i couldn't bear to take surfing this seriously again. nice moment in time to revisit though. thanks mini.

c.1997 Rob Machado's got a magic fish. he brings it in to channel islands to get Al to copy it. Al copies it and Rob gets his new board. The original sits on the rack. 12 years pass before i come in looking for something fun to ride. it looks ugly. So much ding repair that it's changed the shape of the board. it's small and thin and heavy and brown. 5'8" X 18 1/2" X 2 1/4". I take it as a novelty.
this video is from basically my first two sessions on it with some other junk scattered in between. from there i took it on several trips. one of my favorite boards ever. oddly enough the video 'quiche lorraine' posted earlier on this site was it's final session. the tail finally gave out.