bon dia; long leash string

Posted on Apr 30, 2010 09:55:34 AM

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Posted on Apr 27, 2010 03:09:47 PM

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this brightened up quite a dreary dull day in brazil. if it rained this hard in california people would be flying off freeways and sliding down hills. might of happened here but you don't hear about it. this is from ANP QUARTERLY ISSUE #10 an article on Jim Goldberg. reading this was very inspiring. kind of lifted my spirit. the only writing i included is from the end of the interview because the rest is pretty tied up but... being around surf contests all year can be kinda strange, and things like this put me into a good frame of mind. poignant and insightful. good shit. go buy the magazine or one of Jim Goldbergs books; Rich and Poor or Raised By Wolves. thats what they talk about. but the magazine is old. hes probably had 3 more books by now. and i think i'm gonna try to find one...
Posted on Apr 26, 2010 09:07:29 PM

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Posted on Apr 26, 2010 09:01:25 PM

snapper board@home

this is the only time i've ridden this board other than in heats. i rode it in two heats on the gold coast, then one heat at bells, this session, a couple heats in brazil, and two heats at trestles. it was made for Andy. this is all useless information.
Posted on Apr 22, 2010 11:23:16 AM

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Posted on Apr 19, 2010 06:52:53 PM

super bowl + flimsy board

the original dumpster diver. now twice the weight from ding repair and quite possibly the flimsiest flex in a board i've ever ridden. the stringer protrudes out as if the foam has sunken in. maybe from the mainland mexico heat. it's tricky because it still works sometimes. but only sometimes. if i push too hard it just sputters out. here i try to make it work at rincon on super bowl sunday with mixed results.
Posted on Apr 16, 2010 03:25:44 PM

Paul McCartney

courtney's friend alyssa was hunting rabbits in a field behind a youth correctional facility when she found a fairly weathered college ruled 70 page notebook. interested, she picked it up and brought it home. she showed courtney because courtney and i are into that sorta thing. there were poems, screenplays, and rants about loneliness written in a very childlike manner. some pages had one word some had none. then in the back was homework. here are pictures of the pages i particularly liked......by the way if this sorta stuff interests you buy Found Magazine or visit foundmagazine.com because it's awesome.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010 06:18:29 PM

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-gold coast tsunami watch
Posted on Apr 11, 2010 04:42:31 PM

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-finding the air vent and a sad person at a Pavement concert in Brisbane
Posted on Apr 8, 2010 01:32:03 PM