dustin miller came to new york in hope of filming me perform in beach break barrels and/or air sections. my ribs were crunched and i couldn't surf, so we went to a party in brooklyn instead and drank coffee the next morning.




every morning we'd wake up at 4:30 or so... shea would make us coffee. strong. the type that makes your throat scratchy and your head throb. then we'd drive down a hill then up a hill and the windows would be down and we'd listen to 'in my life' by the beatles. seems appropriate at that time of the morning. then we'd pass him and he'd wink or smile. an intergalactic totem with a face of industry. mouth full of live wires. "goodmorning, captain," "goodmorning sir"

one afternoon we stopped and took pictures of him

-costa rica, june 20x11




a whole lotta nothin; P.R. half frames.


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