this is my iBook that i bought with photo incentives when i was like 16. i gave it to mini (currently principle filmer for marine layer, but was at the time probably working for josh williams) in probably 2004. well, he just gave it back, and i skimmed though the hard drive via the firewire connecto trick and wanted to share some stuff that was on there.
this video is from mini’s early explorations into iMovie. i get asked a lot about the progression of surfing and always think it’s a silly question. i mean, it just seems obvious to me, people aren’t going to get worse. kids aren’t going to start surfing slower and doing smaller airs. of course they’re going to take what older guys were doing and take it further. and in my eyes there’s rarely anything groundbreaking, it happens incrementally. but then in 8 or 9 years you really see a difference.
i watched matt banting’s ‘living california’ edit on stab the other day. and it was really cool to compare it to this video. i think we’re pretty much the same age, surfing the same shitty waves, and he’s doing the same shit, just more refined, bigger, faster, more rotation.
you know what’s really progressed a lot? video quality.this is unbelievable. first chapter, in it’s infancy, yet to be named, was funded and controlled by quiksilver australia. they hired jason muir and george opachy from a company called ‘the construction site,’ which had made young guns 1 and 2, to produce it. this was the first imagery that i received from them. i really have to thank natas kaupas, who worked at quiksilver in america at the time, cause he saw this and was like ‘oh hell noooo’ and took over the art direction. he gave it the title ‘first chapter’ and gave it a serious nudge in the right direction. it was still produced out of australia and i stayed in north sydney for 6 weeks editing it at the construction site. but the ‘oh hell nooo’ attitude stuck with me through the editing process which gave it it’s bratty attitude, and natas’s art direction really saved it from being just a giveaway/throwaway type of movie.andy. nias, maybe 2004.same trip. this is what happens when you’re a grom on a boat trip. i was really lucky to get to do trips with andy, bruce, mick fanning, cj, taylor knox, shane dorian, and kelly in my late teenager years. especially surfing wise, but also culturally (for lack of a better word). the taylor steele trip era is done, and now its the energy drink trip era, and i feel lucky to at least been apart of the end of the taylor steele trip era.danny fuller, travis logie, jake patterson, kelly slater, fred pattachia, me, and… giselle. i think kelly may have been dating her at the time. she came down to the trestles contest and somebody wanted to take this photo and i remember thinking it was kinda funny that he had his arm around her.this was in japan the last year that quiksilver had a wct there. i got the wildcard and lost to andy in the 3rd round. the waves were incredible. this was the year that andy and kelly had the epic final and shit, who ended up winning? i think andy, but they were both killing it. the waves were huge and kelly took me to surf this outer reef that he had seen from his hotel room window. he called it mathra which i think is a godzilla reference. it was terrifying. it was like a 10 ft crazy ledgy takeoff into a closeout.
this was a flat day before the contest started. golf aint my thing. i ended up carrying my ball the last few holes cause it was maddening trying to hit that dumb little ball straight. i was hyped on the clothes quiksilver japan had given me though.curt harper. if you live in california i’m sure you’ve seen him driving kids around to go surf. he used to pick me and geoff brack up to go surf. now he picks up other 13 yr old kids to go surf. forever young.ry craike/clay marzo. young guns 2 trip. i miss travelling with these guys. the photo of ry is incredible.santa clara 2004. i swear the waves used to be better in california.and finally, young mini. in costume on the left and boogieboarding on the right.
go to quiksilver.com/slowdance tomorrow, august 8th to stream slow dance live for 24 hrs starting 6 am pacific standard time. or go to itunes to buy it. as for us, we are halfway through the premiere tour. today we leave japan for europe where we’ll screen the movie in zarautz on august 9th and hossegor on august 10th. then i go home and craig goes to italy for one more screening. if you’re in the area and dig surfing you gotta come watch. japans been extremely rad – big thanks shin, yuji, haruka, mami, and everyone else at quiksilver japan and various publications like colors-magazine.com and F + magazine (sorry yuki i couldn’t find it online) and, shit, i know i’m leaving some people out, but thanks everyone —>
shitty club where we almost got beat up by a c grade actor from new york
craig has bangs and he hates them
my favorite taxi color
refreshing and uplifting
stab sent grady archibald to cover it. he absolutely hates having his picture taken. he makes cool shit at welcomerivers.com
japan is really expensive, and while this mai tai looks really nice, it wasn’t very good. too tart. not enough dark rum. the view was worth it though.
the premiere was small, but people were psyched.
legendary japanese surfers shuji kasuya and masatoshi ohno
in this part of town…
there is a robot restaurant.
too much for courtney to handle.we brought surfboards… but… well, we’ll just have to come back for that. until next time. thanks japan. europe here we come.
tomorrow – 7/29/2013, is the first day of the hurley pro online trials. go to http://www.thehurleypro.com and vote. i’m up against austin smith ford in the first round. the contest goes all week with a new round every other day. it’s a pretty cool concept. very democratic. you guys choose who you wanna see surf in the lowers pro against the top 34. i’d be honored to get the spot but you guys decide. i’m sure there’s going to be some stiff competition.
i’m headed to japan tomorrow. stoked.
hb saturday rsvp here www.quik.to/slowdancehb , then there is tokyo.
everyones probably tired of hearing about this but if you’re in orange county come check it out. unfortunately capacity is limited because of zoning or some code regulations at quiksilver headquarters so rsvp here www.quik.to/slowdancehb
in other news i’ve entered into the hurley pro online contest where you get to vote who is the wildcard at trestles. starting july 29th at TheHurleyPro.com vote for who you wanna see surf trestles.